Choco is cuttlefish — and it is one of the many fish local to Setubal. Cuttlefish are most commonly served in the form of choco frito — arguably one of the most (if not the most) emblematic dish of Setubal. Tell a Portuguese person you’re headed this way and I guarantee they will tell you to try choco frito. So, since they’re going to ask you on the way back what you thought of the dish, you’ll need to make sure you visit one of the best spots for choco frito in Setubal.
What is Choco Frito?
Choco is cuttlefish and choco frito is fried cuttlefish. I like to say it is akin to British fish and chips, except instead of cod or another whitefish, it’s made with cuttlefish. The cuttlefish is chopped up into small chunks, breaded, and fried. It is most commonly served with a side of french fries. There is usually a lemon to squeeze over the top of the dish before diving in. You will also usually get a small pot of sauce, the exact flavor of which varies from restaurant to restaurant. You’ll be served pieces with tentacles as well as thicker, meatier pieces.
How to Order Choco Frito?
Choco frito is usually on the menu as either a dose or a half dose. A full dose is large. If you are on your own you will probably struggle to finish even a half dose. If you have two people and are quite hungry, a dose would be doable but you still might have to push to finish it all.
Choco frito doesn’t keep incredibly well, so while you could take a box home with you, it’s best not to over order so you can finish it all in one sitting.
Another note when ordering is to confirm whether or not the choco comes with a side. More often than not it comes with french fries but there are some restaurants (including on this list) which serve it on its own.
the Best Spots for Choco Frito in Setubal
O Baluarte do Sado
Location: Behind the Pingo Doce on Luisa Todi
Official website: N/A
What else is on the menu? Just about every fresh fish you could think of as well as assorted shellfish.
Cost of full dose:
O Baluarte do Sado is an incredibly traditional Portuguese restaurant with a very laidback atmosphere. It’s only open for lunch and if you visit on the weekend or during a holiday, expect a wait.
The interior is almost like a cafeteria, it’s noisy when it’s full, the tables and chairs are basic, and dishes are served with no fancy frills. But that’s exactly why it sits at the top of this list of the best spots for choco frito in Setubal. Choco is a dish that doesn’t need to be done in any sort of special, fancy way to be done well. The basic, traditional way is the best — and that’s exactly what you’ll get here.
Cais 56
Location: Av. Luísa Todi 56
Official website: N/A
What else is on the menu? Lots of things. As well as other fish options there is also pizza, pasta, burgers, and more.
Cost of full dose: €20
Cais 56 sits at the end of a long strip of restaurants at the far end of Luisa Todi, close to the ferry to Troia. Many of these spots are popular choco restaurants, but Cais 56 is the quiet winner of the stretch. There is a good amount of outdoor seating and often not much of a wait.
The choco is very nicely done — the texture hits just right with a smooth bite and no rubberiness. It’s important to note though that the choco is served on its own here. There is no sauce nor french fries. You can get french fries, a salad, or any other side, but they will be charged separately.
Novo 10
Location: Av. Luísa Todi 422
What else is on the menu? Mostly fish and seafood but there are also some meat options including pork, veal, and beef.
Cost of full dose: €17.50
Novo 10 has a huge dining area and is located right in the center of the city. How busy it is varies, but with all of its space you can usually manage to get a table, especially if you are a small party.
The choco is served up with a delicious sauce (one of the best sauces from this list) and comes with quite a few of the chunkier slices (rather than tentacles) — which I prefer. Service is quick and friendly.
If you’re after alternatives to choco, all of the fresh fish is displayed at the front of the restaurant, and you can pick out exactly what you want to have cooked up for you.
Sem Horas
Location: Largo da Misericórdia 56
What else is on the menu? A lot of interesting small dishes — from salmon tartar to fried quail eggs. Plus large meat (and veggie) boards.
Cost of full dose: €13.90
Sem Horas is a beautiful space in an ideal location. Even if you don’t go for the choco, stroll by to see how the building is decorated for the season (Christmas is the best). There is almost exclusively outdoor seating — but on the patio there are blankets and heating lamps to keep you warm on cooler evenings.
The choco is billed as a snack and as such is a fairly small portion. There is no option between a half or a full dose. Make sure you get the chilli oil with it — this is a nice way to add a bit of a punch and switch up the standard flavors of the dish.
O Ramila
Location: Av. José Mourinho 22
What else is on the menu? Lots of other fish options, including bacalhau multiple ways. And also meat.
Cost of full dose: €14
O Ramila sits amongst a stretch of many other fish restaurants. They have a large outdoor terrace which looks out onto the harbor, as well as indoor seating options.
This spot is often lauded as one of the best spots for choco frito in Setubal — and while I believe it is good, I wouldn’t rate it at the top of the list.
The choco is served with a sauce and a side of french fries.
Tasca Xico da Cana
Location: Tv. do Seixal 12
What else is on the menu? Plenty of other fish options as well as meat dishes.
Cost of full dose: €15
Tasca Xico da Cana is very important to mention here as their choco is made with corn flour, and as such is gluten-free. While you would need to talk to the kitchen about whether the dish is truly safe for a celiac, it does make it one of the only options in town for anyone on a gluten-free diet.
The restaurant has ample indoor seating as well as an enclosed patio. The staff are friendly and service is generally fairly quick.
If you plan to come on a weekend it’s a good idea to book a table in advance.
