Setubal is a very under the radar foodie heaven. While the food is not exceptionally diverse, it is exceptionally good. And the local specialities are unique, full of flavor, and perfected over centuries. From fried fish to fortified wines, here are ten traditional foods of Setubal you have to try during your stay in the city.
Choco Frito
Choco is undoubtedly the stand out on any list of the best food in Setubal. Choco is the Portuguese word for cuttlefish. And frito simply means fried. So translated this dish is fried cuttlefish. To me, choco frito is the Setubalense version of fish & chips. The choco is chopped into pieces and fried in flour then served alongside a generous portion of french fries. You will normally see it as either a ½ or full dose on a menu — if you are eating solo you’ll want just the half dose, a full dose is enough for two people, if not three.
Personally, I really like choco. However, I’ve had varying luck with quality — nothing ever downright terrible, but certain bits — or if the choco’s not cooked right — can be a bit tough and chewy. If you do have a bite like that, don’t let it put you off, sometimes it just happens. I simply don’t think it would be right to visit Setubal without trying a plate of choco frito at least once!
The best place for choco frito in Setubal: O Baluarte do Sado
Sardines
Another classic fish of Setubal, sardines are actually emblematic of the start of summertime across Portugal — Lisbon even has a whole festival dedicated to the little fish. But you will undoubtedly get amazing plates of grilled sardines all around Setubal. June is peak sardine season. You’ll start to see them pop up on menus through May, but by mid summer they are already dwindling away. Even when sardines are in season, they sell out like hot cakes and are often out of stock at most fish restaurants by 1:00 PM.
If you order a serving of sardines, expect full fish. They will be grilled and coated with flaky salt. Skin, bones, eyes — everything will be delivered to your table as is. From there it’s a rather intimate experience eating them, you have to pick the bones out as you go. And let me tell you, that is no easy task! Expect sticky fingers by the end of it, this definitely is not a great first date meal.
The best place for sardines in Setubal: Casa Morena
Oysters
There are a few excellent spots for oysters around the city. But many of the oysters being served are not from directly off the coast — that doesn’t mean they aren’t still delicious. But what it does mean is that if you want the true Setubal oyster experience, there is one specific spot you need to visit. Inside the Mercado do Livramento, tucked right in the middle of the fish section in the back, is one woman who shucks oysters right in front of you — and serves them right there with a shot of champagne. I honestly can’t think of anything more perfect.
These oysters are enchantingly large, they go down so perfectly smooth, and are absolutely doused in the flavors of the sea. Add a healthy sip of champagne to that and… **chef’s kiss**
The best place for oysters in Setubal: Mercado do Livramento
Mackerel
Though not as often thought of as a star of the Setubal fish menu, mackerel — cavalinha in Portuguese — is another fantastic fish from Setubal. It is served similarly to sardines — grilled and intact, lined up on a plate with little else but its delicious flesh. Mackerel is a white fish which is flaky and sweet. While it’s great as a standalone, you can also enjoy it in salads or other dishes.
The best place for mackerel in Setubal: Peixoco
Sopa caramela
This soup comes from Pinhal Novo, a region of the Setubal peninsula. It is made from cranberry beans, sausages, and a variety of other pork cuttings — maybe the ear, knuckle, head, or belly. These ingredients are stewed together with root vegetables such as carrots, turnips, potatoes, and more. Usually the stew is served with pasta to bulk it up. It should come as no surprise that this hearty dish was initially developed by farm workers in the region. Now, of course, it is enjoyed by many, and is the perfect way to warm up on a cold winter day.
The best place for sopa caramela in Setubal: Churrasqueira o Forno
Azeitao cheese
You may be surprised to learn that Portugal produces some gorgeous, unique cheeses — Azeitao cheese being one of them. And it may in fact be one of the best cheeses the country produces. The cheese is made with sheep’s milk and it is a soft washed rind cheese meaning it has a harder outside but is completely soft and creamy on the inside. The preferred way to eat it is to cut the rind away from the top so it creates its own sort of serving dish. From there, dip right in and scoop out the delicious insides. The cheese is fairly strong and it goes perfectly on some plain bread with a glass of white wine.
The best place for Azeitao cheese in Setubal: Azeitao’s monthly market — the first Sunday of each month
Tortas de Azeitão
Many regions of Portugal have their own unique desserts — this is thanks to the fact that historically there was always a surplus of egg yolks around. Why was that? It was because the monks and nuns used the egg whites to starch their garments, so the yolks were leftover in surplus and needed to be used.
It’s believed that this particular cake dates as far back as the 1800s. Tortas de Azeitão is a rolled sponge cake filled with an eggy mixture that has both lemon and cinnamon flavors. It is a lovely, light treat perfect for a spring day when you’re craving some citrus.
The best place for Tortas de Azeitão in Setubal: Pastelaria Cego
Farinha torrada
This is another sweet treat, but it actually doesn’t make use of egg yolks, instead its base is flour. That is then mixed with chocolate, sugar, lemon, and cinnamon. This is considered to be one of the original energy bars and was a snack that fishermen would often take out to sea with them. This sweet was also used as a medicine against colds and coughs. It’s originally from Sesimbra, and while you can find it elsewhere, the best spot to try it is from the source.
The best place for Farinha torrada in Setubal: Padaria A Camponesa
Wine
The Setubal wine region is one of the most interesting in the entire country. There are a number of gorgeous wineries open to visitors which produce delicious, unique wines — both reds and whites. I recommend visiting at least one and trying as many different wines as they’ll put in front of you. If you absolutely can’t make it to a winery, almost every restaurant in town will have a good selection of local wines — order anything off the Setubal peninsula to get a taste of the region.
The best place for wine in Setubal: Quinta do Piloto
Moscatel
Moscatel de Setubal is one of the three fortified wines produced in Portugal (alongside port and Madeira wine) and it can only be produced in the Setubal DOC. It is a sweet wine made with moscatel grapes. I love having it for dessert. A lot of restaurants will ask you at the end of your meal “sobremesa? Cafe? Moscatel?” which means “dessert? Coffee? Moscatel?” The first two are up to you how you respond, but I strongly recommend a yes to the third.
Moscatel is so smooth and drinkable. But do be careful, it is strong! Sometimes it will be offered with an ice cube or a sliver of orange skin. I recommend being a purist about it and drinking it straight. If you want the smoothest, tastiest moscatel, get a glass of the roxo (purple).
The best place for moscatel in Setubal: Just about any restaurant after dinner
