As summer in Setubal winds down and that hint of a chill comes back into the air, the excitement of the year is not over yet. There are some great autumn celebrations to be had, many of which include very specific foods. But even outside of those celebrations, autumn brings the opportunity to feast on heavier dishes now that the heat of summer has subsided. Here is what to eat in Setubal in autumn.
Tortas de Azeitão
Tortas de Azeitão originate from Alentejo but were made famous once the recipe was bought by a pastry shop owner in Azeitão — on the Setubal peninsula.
They are a small sweet made with sponge cake and doces de ovo — a blend of egg yolk and sugar. While the primary flavor is lemon, it is the oft used cinnamon which makes these little cakes a great treat to enjoy amidst the comfort of an autumn breeze.
That original pastry shop in Azeitão — Pastelaria Cego — still stands and churns out these small cakes every day. So it is, naturally, the best spot to try a torta de Azeitão.
Young Wine
Dia de São Martinho, or the day of St. Martin, takes place on November 11. One of several traditions of the day is that the first wines of the year are tasted, or the young wine.
This wine is by no means the best there is — it hasn’t been aged to perfection after all — but it is tradition to taste it.
You won’t find young wine on any restaurant menus, instead you’ll need to go to a São Martinho festival where it is more often than not being handed out for free. If you want to take an amazing day trip from Setubal, head out to Alentejo to celebrate the day.
Look out for signs or posts advertising “Festa de São Martinho”. There is usually at least one in the Troino neighborhood.
Chestnuts
Hand in hand with the young wine at any festa de São Martinho is chestnuts — or castañas. Like the wine, roasted chestnuts are often handed out for free.
But beyond the one festival day, you will begin to notice the smell of chestnuts roasting throughout the city. From November through most of winter, there is a seller set up in the corner of Bocage square, right next to the Church of São Julião.
As well as a great snack, roasting chestnuts create the most idyllic autumnal scene — their smoke and scent wafts through the air, the seller shouting occasionally to remind passersby of his wares.
Sweet Potatoes
A final element to make your dia de São Martinho complete is the sweet potatoes.
The first time I ever experienced one of these mid November festivals, I was handed a plate of sweet potatoes, another of roasted chestnuts, and a glass of wine — all completely for free. That is the ethos of Portugal festivals — hospitality.
Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato
Translated literally this dish is “Clams Bulhão Pato style”. So now you know it is a plate of clams, but what is “Bulhão Pato style”? It’s simple really — olive oil, garlic, coriander, lemon, and maybe white wine.
This is a light dish, and is the perfect antidote for a warmer autumn day when you want something warm, but not too heavy.
And a pro tip for you: once you’ve finished the clams, use the empty shells to scoop up and drink the sauce on its own. Or you could of course get an order of bread to sop it up.
The best place for amêijoas à bulhão pato in Setubal: A Ratoeira
Chocolate Mousse
You’ll quickly learn that just about every typical Portuguese restaurant comes equipped with a tall display fridge full of readymade desserts. One of the best for the changing seasons is the reliable chocolate mousse.
It’s served cold and very simply. And it’s always delicious.
The best place for chocolate mousse in Setubal: Selo de Mar
Arroz de Marisco
If you still want to cling to the last glimmering hope of summer while still embracing the changing seasons, seafood rice is the answer.
The dish is usually quite large, so sharing it between at least two people, if not more, is necessary.
It’s made with a variety of seafood. You can probably expect shrimp, mussels, and clams, at least. That’s mixed with a healthy portion of rice along with vegetables. Which vegetables are used will vary from restaurant to restaurant — but peppers, tomatoes, and onions are usually in there.
This is a nice, hearty dish, all prepared in a rich seafood broth. It’s definitely very filling!
The best place for arroz de marisco in Setubal: A Vela Branca
Secretos de porco preto
Porco preto is black pig. These are a special breed of pigs which are raised on acorns out on the Alentejo plains. You’ll see their meat served throughout Portugal and Spain. This particular cut is “secretos” or “secret”. It comes from behind the shoulders and in front of the belly. It is a piece of meat which is quite fatty.
Usually before cooking this steak is marinated in a simple mixture of salt and pepper, lemon, garlic, and white wine. It is then thrown on a grill and served with french fries or white rice.
This is one of those Portuguese dishes which is super simple but delicious. You’ll often find it at festivals and fairs as well as small tascas around the city.
Cozido à Portuguesa
This dish is a very classic Portuguese meal. It is a stew consisting of an assortment of meats and vegetables which are all boiled together.
This is an especially good choice for anyone who doesn’t have a very adventurous palette but wants a hearty, filling, autumnal dinner. The flavoring of cozido à Portuguesa is usually not more than salt and some chicken or beef broth.
The best place for cozido à Portuguesa in Setubal: Restaurante Arco Iris
Francesinha
Francesinha hails from Porto, not Setubal, but it is available at a few spots around the city and is a great dish for a cooler day.
A francesinha is a sandwich — but far from a simple one. Between two slices of toast are several layers of different meats — often a slab of steak and a few slices of deli ham, maybe also some chorizo or sausage. Along with that, cheese is added to the sandwich. All of that is then melted together. The whole thing is drenched in a beer and tomato sauce and it is finished off with a fried egg on top.
If that sounds over the top, it is. It is so rich and filling and if you find that you went too hard on the young wine, seek out a francesinha the next day, it’ll sort you out!
The best place for francesinha in Setubal: A Adega das Francesinhas
